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Cosmos Holidays

29.6520 N, 91.1721 E / HIGH POINT 3,656 M

Tibet

Thin air, enormous sky, slow arrival.

BEST SEASON
April to October
IDEAL LENGTH
8 to 12 days
SLEEPS AT
3,656 to 3,977 m
PACE
Gentle
BEGINS IN
Lhasa

Your first day in Lhasa is slower than you expect it to be, and that is deliberate. At 3,656 metres a flight of stairs asks a question of you, so we leave the day almost empty: sweet tea on a rooftop, an hour watching the pilgrims turn the Barkhor, and light coming off the whitewash hard enough to make you squint.

Tibet sits higher than almost anywhere people live, and it feels like it. The air is thin, the sky is enormous, and the Potala Palace still rises over Lhasa the way it has for centuries.

Travel here takes planning, and that is exactly what we are for. We handle the permits and the altitude-friendly pacing so you can give your attention to the monasteries, the pilgrims and the road across the high plateau.

A pilgrim prostrating past a wall of prayer wheels
A pilgrim prostrating past a wall of prayer wheels

What we plan here

  • Potala Palace and Lhasa
  • Altitude-friendly pacing
  • Monastery visits
  • Overland routes
Tibetan prayer flags strung before snow-capped peaks

THE SHAPE OF THE DAYS

Eight days on the roof of the world

Four nights in Lhasa before the road climbs anywhere, because the passes are far kinder once your body has stopped arguing with the altitude. This is one shape the trip can take. Yours will be its own.

  1. DAY 01

    Arrive in Lhasa, do very little

    We collect you from the airport and drive the hour into town, then leave you alone with a flask of sweet tea and one short walk around the block. Dinner is early and bed is earlier, and that is the whole plan for today.

    SLEEPS AT Lhasa, 3,656 m
  2. DAY 02

    The Jokhang and the Barkhor

    Your guide walks the Barkhor circuit with you clockwise, the way everyone else is walking, past juniper smoke and the slap of prostration boards. We time the Jokhang for mid morning, when the butter lamp hall is at its warmest.

    SLEEPS AT Lhasa, 3,656 m
  3. DAY 03

    The Potala, slowly

    There are a great many stairs and only so much air, so we book the earliest entry slot and climb them in pieces. The chapels inside are dim, close and thick with butter, and nobody is moving you along.

    SLEEPS AT Lhasa, 3,656 m
  4. DAY 04

    Sera and the debating monks

    Sera's courtyard fills after lunch with clapping, shouting and laughter, which is what a philosophy exam sounds like here. We get you there before it starts, so you have a seat in the shade rather than a view of the back of a crowd.

    SLEEPS AT Lhasa, 3,656 m
  5. DAY 05

    Across the Kamba La to Gyantse

    The road switchbacks up to the Kamba La at 4,794 metres, where Yamdrok Tso opens out below in a turquoise nobody quite believes at first. We stay up there as long as you want, then drop west to Gyantse for the night.

    SLEEPS AT Gyantse, 3,977 m
  6. DAY 06

    Gyantse Kumbum, then Shigatse

    The morning is for the Kumbum, a stupa you climb floor by floor past chapel after chapel of painted eyes. The afternoon is an easy road west, and we keep it loose in case a village market gets in the way.

    SLEEPS AT Shigatse, 3,845 m
  7. DAY 07

    The long road back to Lhasa

    We take the river road east, following the Yarlung Tsangpo past ferry crossings and barley fields. There is no fixed list of stops, so tell your driver when something is worth pulling over for.

    SLEEPS AT Lhasa, 3,656 m
  8. DAY 08

    Fly out over the plateau

    Ask for a window seat and the high peaks line up along the wing for a good twenty minutes after take-off. Permits, paperwork and the airport run are ours to worry about.

    SLEEPS AT Lhasa, 3,656 m

Altitude does not care how fit you are. It only asks that you go slowly, and everyone learns that in the first two days.

One of our Lhasa guides, 11 years on the plateau

Field notes

Prayer flags strung above the turquoise water of Yamdrok Tso
Prayer flags above Yamdrok Tso, 4,441 m
The Potala Palace on the hillside in Lhasa, Tibet
The Potala over Lhasa, 3,656 m
Pilgrims and prayer wheels on the Barkhor circuit in old Lhasa
The Barkhor circuit, Lhasa
Tibetan prayer flags strung before snow-capped peaks
Flags on the high passes
Yaks grazing beside a still lake on the Tibetan plateau
Grazing yaks beside a plateau lake
NEXT ON THE DESCENT / 3,120 MBhutan

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